What Causes An Electric Stove To Stop Working?

Updated on April 29, 2022

What Causes An Electric Stove To Stop Working?

Stoves are one of the most frequently utilized household appliances. Stoves, like many other household equipment, wear down over time and eventually cease performing in certain ways. Faulty wire connections, burned wires, or a blown fuse may all cause an electric cooktop to cease operating.

An electric stove repair service is often needed to fix a variety of typical problems. Let’s take a deeper look at some of these concerns.

Internal Components Are Damaged

For electric stoves, a qualified home appliance repair specialist will check to see if there is a power supply problem. Once the beaker and fuse box have been ruled out as potential culprits, the investigation will focus on the system’s internal components.

Burnt Wire Connection

When an electric stove won’t turn on, it’s possible that the coils and the cooktop have been disconnected. There is a good chance that the coils have been incorrectly reinstalled if they don’t heat up after a full cleaning.

A problem with the cooktop’s internal ignition switch might also result in cold coils. This switch is responsible for activating the burner heating elements. To fix a stove that has a malfunctioning ignition switch, you’ll need a trained professional.

Defective Thermostat Sensor

As soon as you switch on your cooktop or oven, a thermostat or sensor begins monitoring the temperature and cuts off power when the predetermined temperature has been achieved. The element may not come on at all if the thermostat or sensor malfunctions. Other possible causes of this problem include a malfunctioning endless switch or a faulty internal ignition switch. In any event, the best course of action is to bring in a professional appliance repair service.

Faulty Control Board

Electronic screens on cooktops and ovens show temperature settings and whether the appliance is on or off. A broken control switch, which gives power to the electronic display feature, or burned bulbs, might be to blame if the displays won’t come on. These components are simple to fix or replace.

BEFORE YOU BEGIN TO INSPECT WHY YOUR ELECTRIC RANGE IS NOT WORKING, UNPLUG THE MACHINE FROM ITS POWER SOURCE.

POWER SOURCE

  • Alternating current (AC) for today’s electric ranges must be divided into two 120-volt legs, and each leg must transport 240 volts of AC.
  • The oven won’t work if a tripped breaker or a blown fuse disables just one of the electrical legs.
  • It’s possible that the power supply is underpowered for some reason. Use a multimeter to check the power supply. In order to get accurate readings, the multimeter should be adjusted to volts AC. You may go to the next step if this is the case.
  • Take a look at the breaker and fuse panel. Try turning on the oven again after you’ve reset or replaced a blown fuse or tripped breaker. If the oven turns on, you’ve located the source of the issue.

BURNT WIRE CONNECTION

  • The power supply cables for baking or broiling might burn out near the heating element, resulting in obvious damage to the appliance.
  • Let’s examine whether the issue can be fixed by just replacing the broken wire or part. If it doesn’t work, go on to the next step.

BLOWN THERMAL FUSE

  • Some electric versions’ thermal fuses might explode if the oven gets too hot.
  • A blown thermal fuse will cause the oven to lose power and stop working.
  • Test for continuity using a multimeter.
  • Replace the fuse if the continuity test results show that it is blown or damaged. You may now go to the following stage if the fuse is OK.

DEFECTIVE THERMOSTAT SENSOR

  • The oven may feature a thermostat or a control board with an oven sensor, depending on the model.
  • Control of oven temperature is accomplished using a thermostat or sensor. The oven’s control board turns off the power to the element when it reaches the specified temperature. To keep the food at the right temperature, this cycle repeats itself over and over again.
  • It’s possible that the oven won’t work at all if the sensor or thermostat is malfunctioning.
  • Use a multimeter to check the sensor’s resistance at room temperature. The resistance should be shown as 1100 ohms. Replace the sensor if necessary.

DEFECTIVE CONTROL BOARD

  • The oven control board is most likely to blame if the sensor indicates accurate resistance when tested.
  • You can physically check the control board for evidence of burning or shorts, but you can’t test it.
  • A professional appliance repair person may be needed if you’ve completed this quick troubleshooter and still can’t get your oven to start up.
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